Archives are usually repositories of objects, not intended for further use, rarely displayed in static exhibitions or museum cases. 👗 👘 👚
The Arc is a working archive, consisting of garments, accessories and other paraphernalia amassed by designer Jennefer Osterhoudt. Many items are by John Galliano and Alexander McQueen, with whom she worked very closely from the beginning of their careers and throughout their time at Givenchy, as an accessories designer in Paris during the 1990s. Created by stylist Nick Royal, this constantly expanding collection is regularly frequented by established designers and stylists who use it for editorial photoshoots and campaigns.
This exhibition highlights the eccentricities and rarities from this archive, pieces that as much embody the processes behind creating elaborate toiles in expensive fabrics as reveal complex and labour-intensive techniques used by high fashion. Various personal items sit aside rare handmade invitations, crafted prototypes and toiles that made it into production and select examples are shown alongside a wall of photographs of her own vast shoe collection.
Showcasing these pieces reveals that an archive can be as much about preserving objects for posterity but as a resource to inform future image-makers as they reinterpret ideas from the not-so-distant past.
Exploring the appropriation of Italian designer brands in the underground music scenes of Jungle and UK Garage. Versace, Moschino, Iceberg and D&G are examples of labels that ruled the dance floor in the nineties. Moschino, in particular, became synonymous with the look associated with that era. This exhibition draws from an extensive archive amassed by DJ and producer Saul Milton, which also forms the core of the wider series of exhibitions RTRN II JUNGLE. 🎤 🔊
Recently, there has been a revival of interest in the music, style and culture of that time. Even though Jungle and UK Garage took place before the emergence of the Internet, their history is extensively documented online. However, the overlap between their style and the various times there was a revived interest in the music, has meant that a blurry nostalgic image of the time has emerged.
This exhibition attempts to address this by highlighting the voices of people who were actually there at the time, such as Goldie, Fabio & Grooverider, Bushkin, Skibadee, Navigator and PJ & Smiley, Jumpin’ Jack Frost and MC Nyke. Their personal memories shed light on why designer clothing was first embraced by Jungle ravers and then made famous by UK Garage. By combining the music, testimonials and the original garments, it reveals why high-end Italian labels were so important to the cultural and style history of both genres.